Hiyashi Udon with Goma Dare (Cold Udon with Sesame Sauce)

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Chilled noodles with crunchy vegetables are a welcome reprieve from hot days.

Hiyashi Udon
Photo:

Aya Brackett

Active Time:
25 mins
Total Time:
45 mins
Servings:
4

Cold noodle dishes are common in Japan as the heat soars at the end of summer. Hiyashi udon, which translates to chilled or cold udon, is served here with a goma dare, or sesame sauce, for a savory and refreshing take on soup noodles. The cold noodles are perfectly tender and the vegetables are cut small enough that they are soft and flexible and add a crisp tender texture to the dish.To round it all out, the cold udon is topped with tamago (egg) lightly sweetened with mirin and sliced into strips.

Frequently Asked Questions

  • What is goma dare?

    Goma dare is a sesame sauce made with sesame paste, rice vinegar, bonito flakes, and soy sauce. It is rich and nutty with a mild sweetness from the miso and sugar, and is also fantastic as a dipping sauce for grilled chicken, tofu, and vegetables.

  • What is mirin?

    Mirin is a sweet Japanese cooking wine made from fermented glutinous rice and koji in shochu (a distilled grain spirit). The fermentation process creates natural sugars and alcohol, making it a slightly sweet wine with an alcohol content around 14%. Pure mirin does not contain added sugar but less expensive versions, known as aji-mirin, have added sugar and a lower alcohol content around 8%. 

  • Are neri goma and tahini the same thing?

    Both neri goma and tahini are made from ground sesame seeds however, neri goma uses roasted sesame seeds, giving it a deeper flavor. 

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

Washing the starch off the udon noodles with cold water prevents them from sticking together in this dish.  If using an English cucumber, cut it in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds with a spoon before slicing.

Make ahead

The goma dare and noodles can be refrigerated up to three days in advance.

Ingredients

Goma Dare

  • 1/2 cup bonito flakes

  • 7 tablespoons neri goma (sesame paste)

  • 1/3 cup shoyu, plus more as needed

  • 1/4 cup rice vinegar, plus more as needed

  • 1/4 cup granulated sugar

  • 1 tablespoon saikyo (sweet white) miso

  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

  • 1 1/2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

  • 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds, finely ground

Hiyashi Udon

  • 4 ounces haricots verts (French green beans), stemmed

  • 1 (8-ounce) Japanese cucumber or 1/2 English cucumber, peeled in alternating stripes

  • 1 red gypsy pepper or small red bell pepper, stemmed and seeded 

  • 1 large carrot, peeled

  • 18 ounces uncooked dried udon noodles

Kinshi Tamago

  • 8 large eggs

  • 2 teaspoons mirin

  • 1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

  • 1 teaspoon canola oil

Additional Ingredients

  • Pickled red ginger

Directions

Prepare the Goma Dare

  1. Process bonito flakes, sesame paste, shoyu, vinegar, sugar, miso, lemon juice, and sesame oil in a blender until smooth, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a medium bowl. Stir in ground sesame seeds. Season with additional shoyu or vinegar, as needed. Set aside.

Prepare the Hiyashi Udon

  1. Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil over medium-high. Place ice and water in a bowl; set aside. Add haricots verts to boiling water, and boil until just tender, 5 to 6 minutes. Drain and immediately plunge beans into ice water. Once cold, remove beans, and dry on paper towels; discard ice water.

  2. Cut cucumber, pepper, and carrot into 2 1/2- x 1/8-inch batons. Transfer vegetables to a plate, and cover using a damp paper towel. Refrigerate until ready to serve or up to 2 hours.

  3. Bring a large pot of unsalted water to a boil over high; cook udon noodles according to package directions, about 10 minutes. While noodles are cooking, place cold water in a large bowl. Drain noodles, and immediately plunge into cold water. Rub noodles vigorously between your hands to remove potato starch. Drain noodles in a colander; refill bowl with cold water, and plunge into cold water again. Drain noodles; refill bowl with cold water, and add a handful of ice, and rinse noodles. Drain well, and transfer to a large platter.

Prepare the Kinshi Tamago

  1. Whisk together eggs, mirin, and salt in a medium bowl until frothy, about 30 seconds. Heat oil in a nonstick 12-inch skillet over medium. Add egg mixture, and swirl into a thin layer. Cook, undisturbed, until mixture resembles a thin crêpe and bottom and edges are just set, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board. Roll up crêpe, and cut into 1/8-inch strips.

  2. To serve, top udon noodles with vegetables, Kinshi Tamago, and pickled ginger, arranging in an attractive color-block pattern. Serve with Goma Dare on the side or pour over udon noodles.

This recipe is reprinted with permission from Rintaro: Japanese Food from an Izakaya in California (Hardie Grant 2023).

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