I Aspire to Be As Useful and Chic As This $6 Glass

On a recent visit to Coqodaq, the dimly lit fried chicken restaurant that has almost certainly landed on your Instagram feed since opening its doors in New York City earlier this year, I found myself feeling underdressed relative to the throngs of guests carbo-loading before a big night out. 

Between a handwashing station with over $400 worth of designer soaps from brands like Hermés, Diptyque, and Loewe, and a single, $30 chicken nugget topped with truffles, very little about Coqodaq feels casual — except for a neat stack of Duralex Picardie glasses waiting on each table.

Duralex Picardie Tumblers, Set of 6

As someone who has tested a gamut of single-use kitchen products, from avocado savers (fine) to corn zippers (utterly unnecessary), I reserve a certain level of awe and admiration for simple, versatile items. At the very top of that list is the Picardie glass — the perfect white button-down or black turtleneck of tableware. 

Made with tempered glass that’s safe for both hot and cold drinks (the brand claims that the glasses are manufactured to withstand sudden temperatures from -4°F to 212°F) these glasses have been the bar and restaurant standard across France for over 70 years. With sizes ranging from 3.25 ounces to 17.5 ounces, and various colors like blush, marine, green, gray, and amber, there’s a version for every use and tablescape.

Duralex Picardie Marine 8-3/4-oz Tumbler Set

$29 at Amazon View on Duralexusa.com View on Webstaurantstore.com

Duralex Picardie Green 8-3/4-oz Tumbler Set

$23 at Wayfair View on Jossandmain.com $26 at Macy's

Duralex Picardie Drinking Glasses & Tumbler Set

View on Amazon $30 at Williams-Sonoma $53 at Walmart

Duralex Picardie Gray 12-1/8-oz Tumbler Set

Orig. $45 $35 at Amazon $23 at Wayfair View on Jossandmain.com

“The Picardie glass is as ubiquitous in bistros and casual restaurants in general as tile floors and distressed mirrors, but they've achieved this position because they are actually that good,” says Cody Pruitt, managing partner and beverage director at Libertine, a French bistro in New York City that proudly features said floors, mirrors, and glasses. 

While so many of Americans’ favorite French products come with a steep price tag — wine, skincare products, and haute couture — the Picardie glass, which sells for as little as $17 for a set of six depending on the size and retailer, is arguably the single, most accessible way to channel Parisian elegance anywhere, anytime.

“The reason this glass is cool is because it's so iconic. Drinking from it is like a little escape to a Parisian sidewalk cafe,” says Jeff Cleveland, sommelier and general manager at Birch in Milwaukee, WI. “Choosing it for service of a beverage allows me to be creative with what I put in the glass, knowing the glass will do its part to transport the drinker to a fun place.”

In a hospitality world where attention to detail extends far beyond the menu, everything in the dining room sends a message. Once you know what to look for, it’s easy enough to tell when a restaurant or bar has engaged a buzzy design studio like Polonsky & Friends Likewise, a restaurant that opts for Atelier Saucier napkins, Jono Pandolfi earthenware, or Sabre silverware signals a certain level of cachét. But glassware, which is often the first thing guests encounter upon sitting down, is an especially powerful signaling tool. 

“​​The size, shape, and even weight of your glassware conveys a message without using words,” says D’Onna Stubblefield, general manager and beverage director at Bloomsday in Philadelphia.

Aesthetics aside, ever-tightening operating margins keep costs top of mind for restauranteurs. Notoriously fragile stemware options like Zalto, which can run upwards of $75 per glass, are far from economical.

“We’re aware of how much glassware we have on hand to accommodate guests in any situation, and also how much glass breakage occurs over time,” says Stubblefield. Jolyn Chen, co-owner and general manager of Xiao Ye in Portland, Oregon, says that they’ve dropped Picardie glasses on the ground, “watched [them] bounce, and not have a single chip.”

And then there’s the nostalgia of it all. When I use a Picardie to make a quick espresso, I’m transported back to sipping a cortado in Positano while on vacation. When I grab a stack of Picardie glasses to serve friends a round of white wine, I’m instantly reminded of a pleasant meal in Burgundy.

“Growing up, my best friend's family had lived in Europe for years, and they had Picardie glasses for everything,” says Maggie Dahill, general manager at Theodora in Brooklyn. “Seeing them now in restaurants always brings back fond memories of having big family dinners together.”

At the time of publishing, the price was $28 for a set of six.